The last days of South India...
06.02.2012
So as I promised here is an update of the last days in South India. As i write, it is my last day here in Mumbai, and to be honest it got off to a great start! I've been excited by this all day so i feel it is appropriate to share what was possibly my best breakfast i have had in South India - spring massala dosa (spicy veg and potatoes in a crepe like pancake), a mango lassi (essentially a yogurt drink but they advertise it as fermented milk which is not quite as appealing) and chai. woop! Followed later by kulfi - similar to ice cream with fruits and nuts mixed in, absolutely amazing! Whilst we are here i might as well share another story of my day. Using a public toilet in India is often a regrettable choice but when nature calls...This time, i step in to find about an inch of soapy water on the floor and a motly collection of women sitting on the floor. The majority are washing their clothes in this soapy water, others are completely naked, sitting on the floor washing their bodies completely oblivious to their surroundings. Bemused, I ask if there is actually a toilet I could use and a naked lady grins and points to a shower cubicle.
So i wade over.....
Whilst on the topic i may as well share some more unsightly indian behaviour. Streets stink of urine, largely because the public toilets are so gross the street is probably a better alternative. There is poo in the road, both in metropolis's like mumbai and rural towns. The women - incidentally never the men - burp or fart in your face mid-conversation with not even a blink. One example, we were waiting for a train at a train station (strange that!) and a mother walks her kid over to the train tracks, where he squats and does a massive poo. His younger sister copies him. Then walking back he scratches his bum, scratches his face, and then sucks his fingers. yum.
New Favourite Game
As you walk the streets of India you constantly come across bodies of cats, dogs and people lying strewn across the street. Most look like they are dead. Or not real. It is sometimes hard to tell if the people are sleeping or actually dead. For example, its the middle of the day, you are walking down the street and there is a body lying across the pavement. Not by the side but across it. People walk around it. Now you either have to be really tired or dead to stay there. Another one. In the queue at the ticket office and there is body lying on the floor directly below the ticket booth. Who chooses to sleep there?! And who can stay asleep during the day with hundreds of people crowding around trying to buy a ticket?? So if you haven't guessed it by now, the game is crudely called; dead or sleeping? Well it keeps us amused in the long train station waits...
Surreal moment
The train journey from Varkala, Kerala into Tamil Nadu was absolutely breathtaking. This is why i love travelling by train, you see some amazing views. (Well i also like the fact that when you are squashed between families as we often seem to be, I seem to inadvertently provoke a 'food-off', whereby they compete to get me to taste their home-cooked food brought onto the train - im definitely not complaining!) The south especially has some stunning scenery and is very different from the north. This particular view was made even better by the group of lads sitting nearby, who had a liking for Backstreet Boys. So much so that they 'knew all their stuff', which was demonstrated by some truly awful but enthusiastic singing! I never thought I would ever see men in their twenties un-ashamedly belting out Backstreet Boys tunes! It seems that Backstreet Boys are huge in India!
Best Purchase
Do you remember as a kid you used to get those juice cartons in your lunch box? Well India has the adult version - Rum in a carton! The only thing missing is a straw....
Dharavi slum, Mumbai
Its quite a contentious issue amongst travellers' whether to visit Asia's biggest slum or not. Some say you shouldn't see how people live as a tourist attraction. But isn't that what we all do when we travel around the world? And the way to respect someones lifestyle is to understand it, and to do that, you have to see it.
Anyway, we opted to visit through a company that puts money into a school and education centre located in the slum. and anyway we were not allowed to take photos inside the slum. Im really glad we did go, because it was an eye opener and not really what I imagined at all. I don't think slum is the right word at all, because the majority of its habitants live better lives than those not in the slum.
We started with a look at the plastic recycling process. This was a surprise in itself because india is not renown for its plastic recycling, as litter is strewn everywhere. (a real gripe of mine is the rubbish that people throw out of the train windows, but thats another story. Although people are very good at re-using items and keeping them in use for as long as possible). People who arrive in Mumbai cant afford anywhere to live, so they go to the slums and work for a few years. We saw a typical room, which would cost 2,500 rupees a month. To put into context, those working in the plastic process would earn about 150 rupees for working 8-10 hours a day (just over 2 quid). Ah man the fumes from that place were toxic, I couldn't stand there for more than a few minutes and they were working all day with no protection at all. The women making poppadoms would earn 28 rupees for 1 kg and would produce 5-6kg per day. We saw the leather making process, and the sight of the day has to be the men working away at the sewing machines with cowprint material draped over their shoulders!
Many people have never left the slum, cos it has established a community feel, and they can get everything they need - clothes, food, medicine, schools...We were told that some people like living their so much that even though they can afford to live elsewhere, they choose to stay. There are definitely some very poor people in the slum, and in areas the conditions are horrible - like the rubbish tip outside the communal toilets on which the kids would poo on and then run around playing with the rubbish as toys. There are also some nicer, richer areas where the inhabitants have bigger houses and air conditioning. It is in fact like a town within a city. The community feel and productivity was everywhere - there were Muslims making Hindu shrines, women painting pots, children learning English, bakers baking pastries - which we got to try and were amazing! There was a main street where you could buy goods and then little alleyways off it which were more akin to what i had imagined. These were stuffy, muddy, narrow dark passageways leading past doorways with women sleeping or chatting, children laughing and playing, and the smell of chai a constant.
As we have often found, children are more willing to come up and say hi and shake hands. One girl held out her hand for Kate to shake it. Walking behind them, I saw the girl turn back to the shop, hold the palm of her hand to her face, inhale deeply and beam with pleasure at whom i took to be her father!
What we liked most about the slum was that it was the only place where vendors didnt harass you to buy their goods. We were left in peace to wander around and soak it all in. It was a visit that I would definitely recommend.
Mahalazmi Dhobi Ghat
Mumbai's oldest and biggest washing 'enterprise'! Interestingly it was the men washing the clothes - perhaps because they earned a wage from it! We also saw an advertisement for 'Tide' washing powder being filmed in the ghat.
So there you have it! There is tonnes more i could write about but i don't want to bore you! Im impressed that you are actually even reading this! So the journey around South India has been an unforgettable one. I was worried that having visited the North 2 years ago it wouldn't be as good, but i found that you just can't compare the two. The South and the North are in a way like 2 different countries. So today I head to the airport and fly to Uganda for the last stage of the adventure, meeting up with Maz, Chel and Big Fred. I have no real idea what to expect, it will be totally different from South America and India - very excited!! woop!
Posted by Soph16 02:13 Archived in India Comments (0)

